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How We Make Clear Resin Snow Globes (Without the Bubbles)

📌 Introduction📌 Every holiday season, we get the same request: > “Can you make a crystal-clear snow globe? No bubbles. No haze. Just pure winter magic.” Yes — but it’s not as simple as pouring resin and waiting. Clear resin looks easy. Until you see the first batch covered in tiny bubbles. Or the dome […]

Table of Contents

📌 Introduction📌

Every holiday season, we get the same request:

> “Can you make a crystal-clear snow globe? No bubbles. No haze. Just pure winter magic.”

Yes — but it’s not as simple as pouring resin and waiting.

Clear resin looks easy.

Until you see the first batch covered in tiny bubbles.

Or the dome that looks foggy, like it’s been breathed on.

We’ve been there.

And after years of snow globes, aurora domes, and festive displays, we’ve nailed a process that works — every time.

Here’s how we do it.

The Problem: Bubbles and Haze

Resin is tricky.

Even with careful mixing, tiny bubbles form.

They rise to the surface — but not always in time.

And when you’re casting a dome or a snow scene, even one small bubble near the top ruins the “glass-like” look.

Then there’s moisture.

Humidity in the air, or even in your mold, can cause cloudiness — especially in colder months.

So how do we keep it clear?

Three steps.

No magic. Just consistency.

Step 1: Vacuum Stirring (Mixing Under Pressure)

Most people mix resin by hand or with a drill.

We do it under **vacuum**.

After measuring the resin and hardener precisely, we pour it into a vacuum chamber.

We seal it, turn on the pump, and let the pressure drop.

What happens?

The tiny bubbles *expand* and rise to the surface — instantly.

We let it run for a few minutes, then stop.

The mixture is now bubble-free, smooth, and ready to pour.

It’s not flashy, but it’s the most important step.

No vacuum? You’ll spend forever poking bubbles with a toothpick.

And even then, some will stay trapped.

Step 2: Low-Pressure Casting (Pouring with Control)

Next: pouring into the mold.

We don’t just pour.

We use a **low-pressure chamber** — the opposite of vacuum.

We place the mold inside, seal it, and *slightly* reduce the air pressure.

Then we pour the degassed resin in slowly.

Why?

Because lower pressure helps the resin flow smoothly into every corner — without dragging in new bubbles.

It also helps any tiny bubbles that *do* sneak in to rise and pop faster.

For snow globes, this means clean edges, perfect curves, and no trapped air near the dome’s peak.

We’ve tried open-air pouring.

It’s faster — but the bubble rate? Unacceptable.

This step takes a little longer, but it’s worth it.

Step 3: Post-Pour Replenishment (The Fix-It Pass)

Even with perfect mixing and pouring, resin shrinks slightly as it cures.

That tiny gap? It can create a small void or sink mark — especially in thicker domes.

So we do a **second light pour** after 2–3 hours.

By then, the resin is “tacky” — not liquid, not fully solid.

We mix a small batch, degas it, and gently top up any low spots.

This fills micro-sinks and ensures a perfectly flat, glossy surface.

It’s like frosting a cake — one smooth finish.

Skip this, and you’ll spend time sanding and polishing.

Do it right, and it’s ready to assemble.

Real Talk: What Clients Get Wrong

We’ve seen beautiful snow scenes ruined by rushing the process.

Common mistakes:

– **Mixing too fast** → whips in air

– **Pouring in a cold room** → causes moisture haze

– **Skipping the second pour** → leaves dimples

– **Using non-silicone molds** → harder to demold, risks scratches

One client used a rigid plastic mold.

Tried to pop the dome out — cracked it clean in half.

Silicone molds flex.

They release cleanly.

Worth the investment.

What About Color and Effects?

Yes, you can add glitter, snow, or dyes — but carefully.

We mix glitter into a *separate* batch, degas it, then inject it into the scene with a syringe.

That way, the main dome stays crystal clear, and the sparkle is exactly where you want it.

For a soft glow, we sometimes embed tiny LED wires — but only after the first layer cures.

And always: test your mold first with water.

Check for leaks, alignment, and how the scene sits.

Final Thought

A perfect snow globe isn’t luck.

It’s process.

Vacuum stir → low-pressure pour → second top-up.

Three steps.

High patience.

Zero drama.

When it works, you get that “wow” moment —

a dome so clear, it disappears in the light.

Just snow.

Just magic.

Planning a holiday resin piece?

We offer free mold reviews — send us your design.

Let’s make it flawless.

Picture of Caroline
Caroline
Hi, I'm the author of this post, and I have been in this field for more than 5 years. If you want to wholesale toy or toy product, feel free to ask me any questions.
Picture of Caroline
Caroline
Hi, I'm the author of this post, and I have been in this field for more than 5 years. If you want to wholesale toy or toy product, feel free to ask me any questions.

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